Laundry Problems and How to Fix Each One

Most laundry problems have a specific cause: too much detergent, too little water, the wrong temperature, an overloaded drum or a washing machine that needs cleaning itself. Rather than general advice, this guide works through the problems people most often notice, explains what usually causes each one and how to fix it. A short section on care labels and machine maintenance at the end prevents many of them in the first place.

Problem: towels and gym clothes smell musty even after washing

Likely causes: residue from too much detergent or fabric softener trapping odor, bacteria living in the washing machine, or damp laundry left sitting in the drum.

Fixes: use the amount of detergent the label recommends for your load size and water hardness, which is often less than people pour. Skip fabric softener on towels and sportswear, since it coats fibers, reduces absorbency and can trap smells in synthetic fabrics. Move wet laundry to the dryer or line promptly. For stubborn odors, wash at the highest temperature the care label allows, or soak synthetic sportswear in cool water with a little oxygen-based laundry booster before washing. Turning activewear inside out lets water reach the side that touched skin.

Problem: whites look gray or dingy

Likely causes: washing whites with colored items, using too little detergent in hard water, washing too cold for heavily soiled items, or overloading so clothes can't move freely.

Fixes: wash whites separately, use enough detergent for your water hardness, and periodically use an oxygen bleach suitable for the fabric. Chlorine bleach works on cotton whites but can yellow some synthetics and weaken fibers over time, so use it sparingly and only where the label allows. Never mix chlorine bleach with vinegar or ammonia-based cleaners, since the combination releases toxic gases.

Problem: dark clothes fade quickly

Fixes: turn dark items inside out, wash them in cold water on a shorter or gentler cycle, and avoid overdrying, which also fades fabric. Detergents formulated for dark colors can help. Hang jeans and dark cotton to dry out of direct sunlight.

Problem: sweaters pill or lose shape

Likely causes: friction from heavy items such as jeans and towels, long or vigorous cycles, and tumble drying.

Fixes: wash knits inside out on a delicate or wool cycle, in a mesh laundry bag, with similar lightweight items. Dry flat on a towel, reshaping while damp, rather than hanging, which stretches the shoulders. A fabric shaver or sweater comb removes existing pills.

Problem: clothes shrink

Likely causes: heat, especially in the dryer, combined with agitation. Natural fibers such as cotton and wool are most prone to shrinking.

Fixes: wash in cool water and air-dry or tumble on low heat. Take items out while very slightly damp and let them finish drying flat or on a hanger. Wool can felt and shrink permanently if washed warm and agitated, so follow wool-specific care instructions.

Problem: stains survive the wash

Fixes: treat stains as soon as possible, and always before drying, since dryer heat can set many stains permanently. Some general rules:

• Protein stains such as blood, sweat and egg: rinse in cold water first. Hot water can cook the protein into the fabric.
• Oil and grease: work in a little liquid dish soap or detergent before washing.
• Tannin stains such as coffee, tea and wine: rinse with cool water and pretreat with detergent.
• Grass and mud: let mud dry and brush it off first, then pretreat with an enzyme detergent.

Check the stain before putting the item in the dryer, and repeat the treatment if it is still visible.

Problem: lint and pet hair everywhere

Fixes: wash lint-shedding items such as new towels separately from fabrics that attract lint, such as corduroy and fleece. Clean the dryer lint filter before every load, which also matters for safety. Failure to clean dryers is a leading cause of home dryer fires, according to the US National Fire Protection Association. A short tumble on a no-heat setting before washing loosens pet hair.

Reading care labels

Care symbols follow a standard pattern. A washtub shows how to wash, with dots or a number for the maximum temperature, and a hand for hand-wash only. A triangle covers bleaching, and a crossed-out triangle means no bleach. A square with a circle inside is for tumble drying, with dots for heat level. An iron shows ironing temperature, and a circle on its own refers to professional dry cleaning. A cross through any symbol means don't.

Look after the washing machine

Run an empty hot cycle with a washing machine cleaner or the manufacturer's recommended product about once a month. Wipe the rubber door seal on front-loading machines, where water and lint collect, and leave the door and detergent drawer open between washes so the inside can dry. Clean the drain pump filter as described in the manual. Use high-efficiency (HE) detergent in HE machines, since regular detergent creates too much foam. And don't overload: clothes need room to move through the water to get clean.

Lower temperature, lower cost

Heating water accounts for most of the energy a washing machine uses, so washing at lower temperatures saves energy. Modern detergents are designed to work well in cold or cool water for everyday loads. Hotter washes are still worth using for heavily soiled items, bedding and towels during illness, and anything the care label requires.